In the old days, watch movements were fitted with precious rubies to reduce the friction and wear on certain key metal components in them. Today, those precious rubies have been commonly replaced by manufactures by synthetic rubies that do the work, but that don't look merely as beautiful. The new Christophe Claret Maestoso ref. MTR.DTC07.000-020 presented at Baselworld 2014, is actually one of the few watches in the market that features actual precious rubies on its fascinating movement.
Furthermore, Christophe Claret has gone where very few others have not been able to and has written a new chapter in the history of 'Haute Horlogerie' by equipping the Maestoso with a traditional detent escapement, a mechanism usually designed to run in a perfectly stabilized position, and which, thanks to its sublime beauty, manages to eclipse the tourbillon.
Enabling the mechanism to operate in all the positions that wearing a wristwatch entails —without resorting to the convenience of a modern, shorter detent— is a genuine gamble, pulled off via the three patents and a series of additional innovative systems. To prevent the detent from turning over, an anti-pivot cam, integral to the spring balance, works in conjunction with the safety finger. To cope with the risks of over-banking, a flexible thrust bearing fitted on the wheel and connected to the balance absorbs any excess energy. Christophe Claret has also endowed the watch with a constant force at 4 o'clock, guaranteeing stable energy and amplitude throughout the power reserve.
The Christophe Claret Maestoso is fitted with a generous white gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium case measuring 44 mm in diameter and 13.59 mm in thickness. The round case features a very nice satin-brushed finish and alternating high-polished areas that contrast perfectly against the openworked dial, the black rhodium-plated nickel silver flange with shiny white lacquer and the red ruby and black PVD-treated hands with white superluminova tips. The watch is fitted with a supple handmade black alligator strap with ADLC-treated stainless steel clasp with anthracite PVD-treated titanium caps and white gold Christophe Claret logo. The openworked dial is a real treat for the eyes and just mesmerizing.
Fitted with a display case back with anti-reflective treatment, the visibility of the manual wound calibre Christophe Claret DTC07 is unparalleled. This exceptional movement is composed of 301 parts, 44 jewels, Charles X style skeletonized stepped bridges and a escapement with detent in grade 5 titanium and anti-over banking security device. The calibre beats at a frequency of 14,400 vph and provides an outstanding power reserve of 80 hours thanks to its two barrels fitted in parallel with four springs.
On the wrist, the watch wears true to its size and very comfortably. Its mesmerizing openworked dial will keep you busy looking at it while you get hypnotized by its precious rubies and red ruby red hands. This fascinating timepiece is also available with a 5N Red Gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium case as ref. MTR.DTC07.030-050 and in full 5N Red Gold case as ref. MTR.DTC07.060-080. Each model is only available in a limited edition of 20 pieces each.
Sticker Price 178,000 CHF ex VAT. For more info on Christophe Claret click here.