Posts filed under Zenith

Baselworld 2015: Introducing the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition. Live Pictures and Pricing.

After partnering with Audemars Piguet for several years and after the release of two Royal Oak Offshore limited editions, the legendary Paris-Biarritz race Tour Auto Optic 2000 is now partnering with Zenith. They will finally come together on the starting line of the 24th Tour Auto. Zenith will be the official timekeeper of the competition, and three connoisseurs of mechanical beauty and speed will set off, along with their co-drivers, under its banner. On their wrists, the new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition, a sporty model specially designed for the event in a limited edition of 500 pieces. This new watch, crystallizes the spirit of its partnership with the Tour Auto. Haute Horlogerie and collector's cars are linked by fastidious expertise, as well as a desire for perfection and elegance. The new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition joins them forever by combining the revolutionary chronograph movements for which the Le Locle Manufacture has become famous, with a design whose finely nuanced colors and symbolic elements reveal a subtle automotive influence.

Baselworld 2015: Introducing the Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic. Live Pictures and Pricing.

This year is a big year for Zenith manufacture celebrating 150 years. Along with other novelties from Baselworld 2015 that we have presented you here, we now bring you another watch released this last week, may we introduce the Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic. The new Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic features a pebble shaped case with a diameter of 42 mm and a quite slim profile at 12 mm thick. This new case —featuring a highly polished finish— comes with the nicest pronounced lugs— we've never seen before on any other Zenith El Primero— and with a very clean and timeless design that even includes a domed sapphire crystal. The watch is available in 18K rose gold in a limited edition of 150 pieces and in stainless steel as a regular production watch. The new Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic is fueled by very strong Zenith DNA in its purest and most classic form.

Baselworld 2015: Introducing the New Zenith El Primero Sport. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Reporting live from Baselworld 2015, we bring you the exciting news about a new Zenith El Primero Chronograph. We are talking about the new Zenith El Primero Sport, a new chronograph in its iconic collection interpreted through three classically sophisticated variations, this timepiece is a worthy heir to the grand tradition of sports chronographs. Its 45 mm diameter stainless steel case houses the famous El Primero 400 B automatic chronograph calibre beating at a rate of 36,000 vph. The iconic El Primero collection welcomes a new range of sophisticated chronographs embodying the grand tradition of sports chronographs. Presented in three initial versions, the new El Primero Sport model asserts a resolutely masculine personality accentuated by the generous size of its steel case and the eminently sporty nature of its functions. Its distinctive character reflects the very essence of sports watches and naturally makes it part of a proud lineage of timeless models.

Posted on March 18, 2015 and filed under Zenith, News, Baselworld.

Insider: Zenith Academy George Favre-Jacot. A Manual Wound Timepiece with High-Frequency and Constant Force.

To mark its 150th anniversary, Zenith presents another amazing horological creation, we are talking about the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot which offers a magnificent compendium of the multiple watchmaking skills exercised within the Manufacture. More than a mere tribute, this Haute Horlogerie model testifies to a profound respect for the spirit of the founder without whom nothing would have ever have taken shape. On the technical side, the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot houses a high-frequency manual El Primero 4810 movement. Occupying the entire lower right-hand side of the dial, the power reserve display between 4 and 5 o’clock topped by the inscriptions 'Force constante' and 'High frequency', gives an immediate indication of the movement’s high quality. To its left, the small seconds subdial between 7 and 8 o’clock bears the logo of the Manufacture with the guiding star.

News: Presenting the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute to Felix Baumgartner. Jumping from an Altitude of 38,969.4 meters is worth celebrating.

Consistently cultivating a distinctive and special relationship with challenges, the brand with the guiding star has always accompanied human adventure at its most daring and creative. Witness this new Academy Christophe Colomb, which pays tributes to one of the great early 21st century explorers of human nature, a champion of surpassing personal limits. An experienced parachutist and base jumper, he achieved three feats in 2012 by jumping from a stratospheric capsule. A personality echoing the creative daring and the enterprising spirit of Zenith, expressed through one of the greatest horological discoveries of recent years equipping this spectacular model: the Gravity Control module.

News: Presenting the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Annual Calendar Tribute to Russell Westbrook.

While the Zenith Pilot Type 20 requires no introduction, the Pilot Type 20 Annual Calendar Tribute to Russell Westbrook —designed in collaboration with the young basketball player— deserves a closer look. As its name implies, it is equipped with an annual calendar —an elegantly discreet complication that might almost go unnoticed if it were not mentioned on the dial. The annual calendar differs from the perpetual calendar in that it does not take into account the additional day that is added to the month of February in leap years —every four years.

This is a complication that calculates odd and even months and also factors in the 31st day of August. In a nutshell, it is a useful function that avoids the wearer having to adjust his watch every month. Visually speaking, the day of the week and the month are displayed on the blue dial at 3 o’clock in a rectangular aperture. Just above it are the name of Zenith’s new ambassador, Russell Westbrook, together with his silhouette in action on the court and his signature.

News: Presenting the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Rolling Stones Limited Edition.

Zenith, creator of the El Primero movement in 1969, is teaming up with the famous British rock stars the Rolling Stones, with the launch of a new El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Limited Edition watch. The announcement was made on June 1st, by Jean-Claude Biver, Director of the LVMH Group Watch Division and Tom Bennett, Chief Executive Officer for Bravado, Universal Music Group’s global music merchandising division. The watch will be the first in a series of limited edition watches by Zenith. This 250-piece limited edition is a smart blend of DNA from Zenith and the Rolling Stones. Hence the two chronograph counters, 30-minute at 3 o’clock and 12-hour at 6 o’clock, are bedecked in the same colors as the original El Primero model of 1969, namely midnight blue for the former and slate grey for the latter. The 12-hour chronograph is also overlaid with the famed Rolling Stones logo, the iconic red tongue and lip design. 

News: Presenting the New Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Rainbow. Live Pictures and Pricing.

During Baselworld 2014, Zenith presented to the press a significant number of novelties that  included the Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Rainbow. However, this new watch was finally officially released two days ago. With our readers in mind, we took some pictures of this new watch during our meeting with Zenith in Baselworld that finally we are able to publish for your viewing pleasure. Nothing like looking at live pictures of new watches. Following the design of the Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th Tribute to Felix Baumgartner, this time the El Primero Stratos Flyback Rainbow is presented with a black dial with white Arabic numerals, colorful accents —yellow, green, blue and fluorescent pinkish— on its 30-minute chrono register at 3 o'clock, red numerals for the first 20 minutes of its graduated rotating bezel and a bright fluorescent pinkish seconds hand that rounds out the design equation.

Insider: Zenith Captain Power Reserve. Classical Elegance, Rich Heritage and a Very Nice Price Tag.

The new Zenith Captain Power Reserve ref. 03.2122.685/01.C498 in stainless steel is a watch that comes with exceptional understated elegance, rich heritage and a very nice price tag. This elegant timepiece presented at Baselworld 2014, features a classic round highly-polished —with satin-brushed lugs— stainless steel case measuring 40 mm in diameter and 9.25 mm in thickness. The Zenith Captain Power Reserve features a black alligator strap and is available with a silver or black dial. Its shape and finish are as traditional and classic as it gets, making this watch one of our favorite watches under $7K USD.

This classic and elegant new watch, features a simple, yet well balanced dial that Zenith refers to as a silver velvet-finished dial —typically known as a sunburst dial— with rhodium faceted applied markers, a power reserve indicator between 1 and 3 o'clock, subsidiary seconds at 9, a date aperture at 6 o'clock and dauphine hands. To make this watch even more appealing, Zenith added a slightly domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides that allows for excellent readability and unparalleled protection from unwanted glare or reflections that allow the wearer to fully enjoy the beauty of the dial. The seconds hand as well as the power reserve hand are blued to provide optimal contrast against the silver background. Perhaps the biggest downside with this watch as with most elegant and classical timepieces, is the lack of luminescent material on the markers or hands.

The new Zenith Captain Power Reserve is powered by the automatic Zenith calibre Elite 685 with a relatively small diameter —for such as large case size— measuring only 11.5 lignes —25.60 mm. This reliable and accurate calibre is composed of 179 parts, 38 jewels, skeletonized rotor featuring the iconic Zenith star and Côtes de Genève. When fully wound, this solid calibre provides a nice and long lasting power reserve of 50 hours. The calibre is fully visible through the case back and a nice treat for the eyes.

Fitted with a nice but somewhat stiff black alligator strap that for sure will require a long break-in period, the watch wears slightly bigger than its actual size because of the very thin bezel on its case design. The strap is fitted with a pin buckle but Zenith offers an optional triple folding clasp. If you are on a budget and you like elegant watches with strong pedigree and great craftsmanship, the Zenith Captain Power Reserve is a great option and a watch that delivers flawlessly on the price-value equation. For those willing to pay a little bit more, the watch is also available in 18K rose gold or 18K white gold.

Sticker Price $6,500 USD Stainless Steel, Gold References $14,100 USD. For more info on Zenith click here.

News: Aldo Magada From Breitling Appointed President & CEO of Zenith. Only Time Will Tell What His Impact Will Be.

On May 2, 2014, LVMH announced the appointment of Aldo Magada as President and CEO of Zenith. Aldo will take over his new responsibilities on July 1st, 2014 replacing Jean-Frédéric Dufour who recently left Zenith to become the new CEO of Rolex S.A.

Jean-Claude Biver, President of the Watches Division of LVMH, is firmly convinced that Aldo’s significant experience in the watch-making industry, combined with his proven-track record in product development and strategy as well as his in-depth knowledge of manufactures will be instrumental to develop Zenith.

Aldo Magada is a Swiss citizen born in 1958. He grew up in Switzerland and graduated from the University of Lausanne in 1981 and from the University of La Jolla in San Diego, California in 1982. Aldo Magada started his career in sales at Vifor, a para-pharmaceutical company. In 1984, Aldo joined the watches industry at Swatch and then held positions with increasing responsibilities for Piaget and Omega where he was Product Director and Marketing Director alongside Jean-Claude Biver between 1994 and 1998.

In 2000, he became President of Gucci Time Pieces.  Between 2002 and 2009, he led Technomarine, Reuge and Badollet, before founding a consulting firm, earning recognition and trust of numerous key players in the watches industry. Since 2010, he has been International Sales & Business Development Director at Breitling. During his nearly 30 years of experience mainly in the watchmaking industry, Aldo Magada has demonstrated his instrumental role in brand development and repositioning. As Jean-Claude Biver highlights, Aldo will ensure a continuous success for Zenith over the coming years.

Frankly, only time will tell what Aldo Magada's impact will be at Zenith as Jean-Frédéric Dufour leaves the brand at a very different place from when he took over in June of 2009. The Zenith brand image has been effectively repositioned and properly revived. 

For more info on Zenith click here.

Posted on May 4, 2014 and filed under Zenith, News.

News: Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución'. Celebrating Three Iconic Latin American Revolutionaries.

Yesterday, we brought you the news regarding Jean-Frederic Dufour departing Zenith to join Rolex as the CEO. Today, we bring you these three new amazing Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' Limited Edition timepieces that were just released by Zenith to celebrate three of the most iconic revolutionaries from Latin America.

These three new watches are only available in an exceptional three-piece limited edition that can be purchased individually or as a box-set with all three references included. Like all the watches in the line, the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' stands out immediately from the rest of the Zenith collection. The open dial architecture gives pride of place to the movement, making it possible to see and admire the three original mechanisms: the barrel with fusée-chain transmission appearing between 10:30 and 1:30 on the dial, the gravity control gyroscopic module that shows an entirely hand-crafted micro-painting depiction of the Southern hemisphere and the high-frequency regulator at 6 o’clock.

The incredible technicality of this timepiece also stems from intensive aesthetic research calling upon the talents of the best craftsmen, whose skills Zenith is committing to maintaining. The three gold subdials —hours/minutes at 12, small seconds at 9 and power reserve at 4 o’clock— have been finely guilloché and then enameled, equipped with blued steel hands reflecting the finest watchmaking traditions and screwed to the plate with blued steel screws. The plate has been hollowed out to fit the shape of the dials and the gyroscopic module. On the remaining super-light structure, five stars including Zenith’s, have been carved in relief and coated in midnight blue varnish. In parallel, the decor of the gravity control system’s counterweight shows an entirely hand-crafted micro-painting depiction of the Southern hemisphere.

On the case-back, the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' has three big surprises in store. As its name indicates, the timepiece is available in three versions paying tribute to three iconic revolutionaries from Latin America: Simón Bolívar, Ernesto “Che” Guevara and Emiliano Zapata. These are veritable miniature paintings produced by the best craftsmen with the help of a sophisticated system of gold appliques fixed directly onto the movement.

On the first model, fitted with a 950 Platinum case, there is a white gold portrait of the Venezuelan general and politician, Simón Bolívar —'Libertador' of the Americas— to the left of the counterweight of the gyroscopic module depicting the Southern hemisphere. Above him also in white gold, is his sword, and to the right of the counterweight are his pistols. In the background he is riding a white horse that one can see is prancing. Finely carved and painted by hand, these details are achieved with the utmost delicacy and under a microscope.

On the back of the second model fitted with an 18K Pink Gold case, there is a white gold portrait of Ernesto Guevara, known as the “Che”, wearing his famous beret with a star. This Argentinian, who was one of the men behind the Cuban revolution, is standing proudly above the counterweight of the gyroscopic module, while, on both sides, his followers are depicted brandishing their guns. The characters are in gold and carved by hand, while the details of the Cuban flag, on the left, and the ocean with the island of Cuba, in the top right hand corner, were painted under a microscope.

The back of the third model fitted with an 18K Yellow Gold case, catches the eye with its reference to the Mexican Revolutionary art movement, with bright colors surrounding a white gold portrait of a 'calavera' horse and his rider astride the gyroscopic module. On the bottom right, a cactus sits opposite the white gold portrait of the iconic Mexican revolutionary Emiliano Zapata on the left side of the gyroscopic module. To round out the design of this particular model, ancient Aztec iconography was added around the top right side corner. Here too, this exceptional work on the tiniest details was done under a microscope. Completely hand-finished by skilled craftsmen, these extraordinarily delicate adornments transform the three Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' into authentic collector’s items.

To make this limited edition even more special, Zenith decided to fit them with a very special presentation box. The three timepieces composing the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' edition are presented in a mahogany box adorned with corner trims and an ox-bone lock. The effigies of the three characters after which the models are named are silk screened onto a piece of papyrus embedded in the cover. Additionally, this exceptionally created box can be transformed into a very exclusive cigar humidor that can accommodate up to 200 cigars.

Sticker Price $419,000 USD for each reference. For more info on Zenith click here.

Technical Specifications Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' Edition

Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Revolución Tribute to Simón Bolívar ref. 40.2213.8805/36.C714 950 Platinum case on Black alligator leather strap with 18-carat white gold triple-blade folding clasp.

Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Revolución Tribute to 'Che' Guevara ref. 18.2214.8805/36.C713 18K Pink Gold case on Brown alligator leather strap with 18K pink gold triple-blade folding clasp.

Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Revolución Tribute to Emiliano Zapata ref. 34.2210.8805/36.C713 18K Yellow Gold case on Brown alligator leather strap with 18K yellow gold triple-blade folding clasp.

Case: 950 platinum, 18K Pink Gold and 18K Yellow Gold respectively with a diameter of 45 mm and a thickness of 21.80 mm with a cambered sapphire crystal with glare-resistant treatment on both sides, protective domes for the gyroscopic module.

Dial: Enameled 'champlevé' gold dials with blued hands.

Movement: El Primero manual wound Calibre 8805 composed of 939 parts, 53 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 36,000 vph.

Water resistance: 30 meters.

Baselworld 2014: Zenith El Primero Lightweight. Live Pictures and Pricing.

This time we are presenting you the brand new just released at Baselworld 2014, Zenith El Primero Lightweight ref. 10.2260.400/69.R573. It is important that we clarify that this new watch is quite different to its predecessor the El Primero Lightweight Limited Edition to 100 pieces released at the end of September of 2013. The immediate tell-tale between both watches is the difference in the chronograph mechanism —12-hour chronograph vs. 60-minute chronograph with striking 10th on last year's model. Additionally, there are cosmetic differences that help differentiate one from the other such as the writing on the sapphire crystal —36,000 vph vs. 1/10 Of A Second—, the chronograph seconds hand in blue and lastly the blue accent surrounding the flange.

Zenith El Primero Lightweight Striking 10th. Limited Edition to 100 Pieces.

Known for their ability to combine technological innovation with creative daring, the engineers and watchmakers of the Zenith Manufacture were entrusted with the mission of developing a light watch with a sporty design, while making no compromises on precision, sturdiness and reliability —just as one optimizes an engine intended for competition.

The sizable feat began with the movement. Drawing upon its latest research on new materials, Zenith selected titanium —a light and sturdy material widely used in aeronautics— to build the movement bridges. The Manufacture also opted to use silicon, with the lever and escape wheel made from this high-tech, anti-magnetic material that is three and a half times lighter than classic alloys, harder than steel and a guarantee of excellent efficiency. El Primero 400B Titanium calibre is 25% less heavy than a classic El Primero calibre and is the lightest chronograph calibre on the market weighing 15.9 grams. The calibre is composed of 328 parts, 31 jewels, oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern decorated with the Spindrift logo and it provides a power reserve of 50 hours.

The watch is available in a limited edition of 250 pieces and is distinguished by its 45 mm carbon and aluminum case with titanium pushers and crown that reveal the extreme nature of this ultra-sporty chronograph.

The openworked dial provides another bird’s eye view of this legendary movement, a dynamic reinterpretation of the collection’s classic design characteristics. The transparency of the central part makes it even lighter and provides a clear view of the skeleton-worked El Primero calibre. The disc-type date display is also both light and efficient thanks to cut-out stencil-style numerals standing out against a red dot at 6 o’clock.

The generously hollowed-out faceted hour-markers bear a luminescent coating, while the light grey, blue and anthracite counters pick up the three emblematic colors of the 1969 El Primero chronograph that have become one of the collection’s key signature features. The blue central sweep-seconds chronograph hand with its small Zenith star is accurate to the nearest tenth of a second.

On the wrist, the watch is light as a feather but with strong wrist presence. Any watchlifestyler that is a true connoisseur, can appreciate the years of research and development that went into this timepiece before becoming a reality. Next time you are base jumping off of the cliffs in Norway, make sure nothing weighs you down while you are gliding down in your gliding suit. 

Sticker Price $19,000 USD. For more info on Zenith click here.

Baselworld 2014: Presenting Three New Zenith Watches. El Primero 410 Non-Limited Edition, El Primero Stratos Flyback and the Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition.

Today, we are featuring live pictures and pricing for three new Zenith watches presented at Baselworld 2014. These three new watches along with the new Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 reviewed by us here. These three new timepieces span across different collections of the brand: the Zenith El Primero 410 —non-limited edition model with silver sunray dial, the limited edition model was reviewed by us here—, the Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback —this time with the same dial configuration as the Stratos Flyback Striking 10th Tribute to Felix Baumgartner— and lastly the new Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition in stainless steel with matte white dial.

Let's start by talking about the new Zenith El Primero 410 which is now available in a non-limited edition and with a beautiful very clean sunray silvered dial. This watch, just like the El Primero 410 Limited Edition, is not only a vintage inspired timepiece with a fully integrated automatic 12-hour chronograph, but it is also fitted with an annual calendar with moon-phases. The El Primero 410 is fitted with a 42 mm highly-polished stainless steel case with satin-brushed lugs and with a thickness of 12.75 mm —not bad for such a robust calibre. This watch features the traditional El Primero pump pushers and a beautiful and solid crown with the Zenith star on relief. The case band features two correctors at 8 o'clock to adjust the moon-phase indicator and the day of the week and the overall look of the watch is sporty, yet very elegant. The beating heart inside this watch —gives its name to the watch— is the automatic El Primero calibre 410 composed of 390 parts and 31 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 36,000 vph.

Sticker Price $10,600 USD.

The Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback is now presented with the same dial configuration as the Stratos Flyback Striking 10th Tribute to Felix Baumgartner and available with a stainless steel bracelet or a black rubber strap. The generous stainless steel case on this watch measures 45.5 mm in diameter but wears slightly smaller. Up until now, the El Primero Stratos Flyback was only available with a blue dial, a blue bezel and blue rubber strap. This watch is fitted with the automatic column-wheel chronograph movement El Primero calibre 405 B —instead of the 4057 B in the Tribute to Felix Baumgartner model— with flyback function. This automatic calibre is composed of 331 parts, 31 jewels and it provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 36,000 vph.

Sticker Price $9,200 USD on bracelet and $8,500 USD on rubber strap.

Lastly, let's talk about the new Boutique Edition Captain Winsor Annual Calendar in stainless steel with matte white dial. The Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition, offers one of the most fascinating complications with a dual aperture at 3 o'clock where the month and day of the week are displayed. This new Boutique Edition is a perfect addition to the Captain collection. Up until now, this watch was only available in 18K rose gold with matte white dial or in stainless steel with a smoked, silver-toned palladium dial with blue chrono hands. The new Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition features a nice highly-polished stainless steel case measuring 42 mm in diameter and one of the most well-balanced dials with a running seconds subsidiary register at 9, a 60-minute chronograph register and date aperture at 6, and a day/month aperture at 3 o'clock. The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic El Primero calibre 4054, composed of 341 components, 29 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 36,000 vph.

Sticker Price $10,400 USD. For more info on Zenith click here.

Baselworld 2014: Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Lying face down on the lower wing of the twin-propeller aircraft named “Flyer”, Orville Wright achieved the first powered, heavier-than-air controlled flight in history, on Kitty Hawk beach. The young man covered a distance of 40 metres at a height of 60 centimeters off the ground. The date was December 17th 1903. Representing a major milestone in aviation history the year 1903 now gives its name to a timepiece created by Zenith as a tribute to the Wright brothers: Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903 ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740. A few weeks ago, we were able to review this fascinating limited edition timepiece and get some live pictures for you.

This new watch presented at Baselworld 2014, features a case made of black DLC-coated titanium that is ultra-light despite its 48 mm diameter. The ratcheted crown typical of historical aviator watches ensures a perfect grip even with pilot’s gloves.

The five-time sandblasted black dial reproduces the generous original Arabic numerals ensuring perfect readability day or night. The luminous glow of these delightfully vintage figures stems from a first “old radium” treatment covered with a more classic superluminova treatment. This ingenious combination creates a creamy shade enlivened by tiny retro accents that cannot be identically reproduced from one watch to the next. Each dial thus becomes unique and further heightens the exclusive character of the 1903-piece limited edition, of which the individual number appears on a special plate screwed to the case band, like an aircraft rivet. Just like on all other Pilot Type 20 GMT watches, the second time zone independent hand with red tip is advanced as necessary by pushing a very convenient button with fluting that is located on the case band at 10 o'clock.

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The piece serves as an invitation to travel thanks to a second time-zone indicator powered by the Elite Calibre 693 movement. Finely adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif even though it remains hidden from sight, it ticks off time at the rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 50-hour power reserve. Beneath this elegant mechanical heart, the case-back, is adorned with a stamped insignia depicting Orville Wright about the “Flyer”, with his brother Wilbur running along Kitty Hawk beach to follow the feat being accomplished on December 17th 1903.

A sturdy bund type —wristband style strap first worn by German pilots in the second world war and later turned into a timeless classic by Paul Newman— strap crafted in beige suede leather sets the finishing touch to this model. Its dark brown lining features a heat-embossed motif in which connoisseurs will note the inscription “Zenith Flying Instruments” as well as the brand’s historical logo with the Le Locle Swiss Made embossing.

On the wrist, the watch wears very comfortably and slightly smaller than its actual size. The light colored bund style strap fits the look of the watch perfectly and almost matching the color of the Arabic numerals on the dial like a match made in heaven. This vintage inspired watch with its blackened DLC coated titanium case will provide unparalleled wrist presence anywhere you go in a nice limited edition of only 1903 pieces.

Sticker Price $8,600 USD. For more info on Zenith click here.

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Technical Specifications of the Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740

MOVEMENT
Elite 693, automatic
Calibre: 11 ½ ‘‘‘ (Diameter: 25.6 mm)
Thickness: 3.94 mm
Components: 186
Jewels: 26
Frequency: 28,800 VpH – (4 Hz)
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern

FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the center
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
24-hour second time-zone indicator

CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Material: Titanium case with DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating
Diameter: 48 mm
Diameter opening: 40 mm
Thickness: 15.80 mm
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Zenith Flying Instruments logo
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Matte black
Hour-markers: SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium
Hands: Black ruthenium, satin-finished with
SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium

REFERENCE
96.2431.693/ 21.C740
Vintage-effect nubuck heat-embossed with “Zenith Flying Instruments” logo
Steel pin buckle with black DLC coating

Baselworld 2014: Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu. Live Pictures of a Massive 60mm Timepiece.

Today, we were able to review one of the most unique and fascinating timepieces at Baselworld 2014 thus far. We are talking about the massive 60 mm sapphire case with white gold bezel Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu. This massive timepiece with a heritage rooted in the history of aviation is literally carved out of a sapphire and white gold bezel and lugs casing housing a legendary historical movement —El Primero 5011K— that is rounded out by the beautiful 'Grand Feu' enamel dial on it and the perfectly matching black calfskin leather strap with pin buckle. The beautiful white 'Grand Feu' enamel dial features black Arabic numerals, blued hands, a power reserve indicator at 3 and subsidiary seconds register at 9 o'clock.

The Zenith calibre El Primero 5011 K is a manual wound movement composed of 134 parts and 19 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 48 hours when fully wound. The highly decorated movement is fully visible via the display case back and the sapphire middle case. Perfectly grasping the nature of its exceptional mechanical pedigree implies a brief look back in time and more specifically to 1960, the year when the Manufacture produced a movement that would make its mark on history: Calibre 5011K. Beating every existing precision record in its category – Neuchâtel Observatory awarded it the title of the most precise chronometer ever presented – this mechanical movement that became a legend was to equip marine chronometers and pocket watches. A small number of original 5011K calibres, found in the archives of the Manufacture, have been updated and remarkably decorated to now find their place in several Pilot Type 20 models consistently issued in extremely limited editions. The new Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu is equipped with this historic original movement. The middle case and the transparent case-back afford ample views of this mechanical manual wound 5011K movement. Its 60 mm diameter provides scope for exceptional finishing. Entirely hand-engraved and chased by remarkable artisans, the sides and back of the movement —as well as the gold lugs and bezel— are adorned over their whole surface with intricate scrolled and garland-like motifs reflecting the spirit of traditional Fine Watchmaking. A miniature work of art displaying breathtaking finishes. Oscillating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour, Calibre 5011K also features shock-absorbers on the balance-staff and on the escapement, fine adjustment as well as a self-compensating anti-magnetic Breguet overcoil balance-spring —a set of attributes contributing to its first-rate performances while detracting nothing from its resolutely vintage spirit.

This amazing timepiece is only available in a limited edition of 10 pieces and one needs to see this watch in person to really understand how big but beautiful is this watch. On the wrist, this watch is just massive and top heavy, definitely a piece that will get a ton of attention but really not practical at all for every day way. Definitely a watch reserved for a very 'special occasion'.

Sticker Price TBC. For more info on Zenith click here.

Posted on March 27, 2014 and filed under Baselworld, Zenith.

Insider: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Grande Date in 18K Rose Gold and Stainless Steel. Live Pictures and Pricing.

This new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Grande Date in 18K rose gold and stainless steel ref. 51.2160.4047/01.C713 was presented to us recently and it is one of the novelties that will be shown by this manufacture at Baselworld 2014 at the end of March. The Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Grande Date collection is fitted with a large and solid case measuring 45 mm in diameter, 15.60 mm in thickness and with a dial that features an opening where the legendary beating heart of the El Primero automatic movement with column-wheel chronograph can be appreciated.

This new watch will be available with a brown alligator strap or a full two-tone bracelet. This new model features a stainless steel case with an 18K rose gold bezel, crown and pushers. The chocolate brown dial features a 'big date' aperture at 2, a 30-minute chronograph register at 3, a three-arm small seconds hand at 9 and a sun/moon indicator —night and day— at 6 o'clock. The dial is one of the most beautiful brown dials we have ever seen and its color gets accentuated by the rose gold-plated faceted applied markers and rose gold-plated faceted hands with superluminova inlays. The beauty of the dial can be fully appreciated without any undesired reflections thanks to the domed anti-reflective double-coated sapphire crystal fitted on the watch.

The watch is fitted with a display case back that allows for full view of the impressive Zenith El Primero 4047 automatic calibre. The movement is composed of 332 parts and 32 jewels and it provides a power reserve of 50 hours while beating at a frequency of 36,000 vph. The finishing on the movement is extremely well done and the skeletonized rotor features the iconic Zenith star on bas-relief. 

On the wrist the watch wears true to its size and very comfortably. The wrist presence is unparalleled and for those that don't fancy the brown dial, there is also a silver sunray dial available on this new two-tone model.

Sticker Price $17,800 USD. For more info on Zenith click here.

News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Zenith Presents the Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903. A Limited Edition of 1,903 Pieces.

In their bicycle shop in Dayton Ohio, Wilbur and Orville Wright dreamed of wideopen spaces and freedom. These natural-born inventors conceived a first glider that they launched on the Kitty Hawk dunes in North Carolina. At the same time, they built a wind tunnel to study various technical aspects such as the profile of the wings. Constantly perfecting their prototypes, they installed a stabiliser at the front of a second glider, and then a steering rudder at the back of a third that could thus be controlled: a world first in the field of aeronautics! After hundreds of trials, the two brothers decided to move a step forwards by equipping their glider with an engine. Lying face down on the lower wing of the twin-propeller aircraft named “Flyer”, Orville Wright achieved the first powered, heavier-than-air controlled flight in history, on Kitty Hawk beach. The young man covered a distance of 40 metres at a height of 60 centimeters off the ground. The date was December 17th 1903. Representing a major milestone in aviation history the year 1903 now gives its name to a timepiece created by Zenith as a tribute to the Wright brothers: Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903.

Zenith was one of the first watch manufacturers to create flight instruments to equip various aircraft and spaceships manned by the aviation pioneers. Known for their precision and exceptional ability to withstand vibrations, magnetic fields and variations in temperature, the Zenith altimeters, watches, onboard and wristworn chronographs became extremely popular with pilots, who were thus accompanied in their feats by the brand with the guiding star. In just over a century, Louis Blériot, Léon Morane, or more recently Felix Baumgartner, accomplished their destiny and put their name in the history books with a Zenith instrument on their wrist or on their cockpit controls.

Drawing upon these historical roots, the piece features a case made of black DLC-coated titanium that is therefore ultra-light despite its 48mm diameter. The ratcheted crown typical of historical aviator watches ensures a perfect grip even with pilot’s gloves. The five-time sandblasted black dial reproduces the generous original Arabic numerals ensuring perfect readability day or night. The luminous glow of these delightfully vintage figures stems from a first “old radium” treatment covered with a more classic superluminova treatment. The effect is fascinating and the resulting appearance truly unique, since this ingenious combination creates a creamy shade enlivened by tiny retro accents that cannot be identically reproduced from one watch to the next. Each dial thus becomes unique and further heightens the exclusive character of the 1903-piece limited edition, of which the individual number appears on a special plate screwed to the case band, like an aircraft rivet.

The piece serves as an invitation to travel thanks to a second time-zone indicator powered by the Elite Calibre 693 movement. Finelyadorned with a Côtes de Genève motif even though it remains hidden from sight, it ticks off time at the rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 50-hour power reserve. Beneath this elegant mechanical heart, the case-back, is adorned with a stamped insignia depicting Orville Wright about the “Flyer”, with his brother Wilbur running along Kitty Hawk beach to follow the feat being accomplished on December 17th 1903.

A sturdy wristband crafted in beige suede leather sets the finishing touch to this model. Its lining features a heat-embossed motif in which connoisseurs will note the inscription “Zenith Flying Instruments” as well as the brand’s historical logo, thus underlining the spirit of an era in which the skies were still waiting to be conquered.

Sticker Price TBC For more info on Zenith click here.

Technical Specifications of the Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740

MOVEMENT
Elite 693, automatic
Calibre: 11 ½ ‘‘‘ (Diameter: 25.6 mm)
Thickness: 3.94 mm
Components: 186
Jewels: 26
Frequency: 28,800 VpH – (4 Hz)
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern

FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the center
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
24-hour second time-zone indicator

CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Material: Titanium case with DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating
Diameter: 48 mm
Diameter opening: 40 mm
Thickness: 15.80 mm
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Zenith Flying Instruments logo
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Matte black
Hour-markers: SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium
Hands: Black ruthenium, satin-finished with
SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium

REFERENCE
96.2431.693/ 21.C740
Vintage-effect nubuck heat-embossed with “Zenith Flying Instruments” logo
Steel pin buckle with black DLC coating

News: Zenith Unveils the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage. Entirely Hand-Finished in a 10-Piece Limited Edition.

This year, the Manufacture is pursuing its tribute to the famous navigator Christopher Columbus by introducing this heir to marine chronometers in a splendid interpretation calling upon the finest artistic crafts such as enameling, engraving and micro-painting. It thereby expresses perfect mastery of these historical skills that have been adorning Zenith creations for almost 150 years. This exceptional entirely hand-finished model issued in a 10-piece limited edition is accompanied by three major horological discoveries: a patented gravity control system; a fusée and chain transmission mechanism; and an exceptional frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour.  

A pioneering spirit, a love of challenges and a thirst for exploration: the very same passion and the same quest for uncharted horizons guided Christopher Columbus and Georges Favre-Jacot —the former when he set sail across the vast expanse of ocean to open up a westward route towards the Indies; and the latter when he founded Zenith in 1865 by inventing the very first industrial watch manufacturing company or “Manufacture”. Almost a century and a half later, the brand with the guiding star is still faithful to this pursuit of precision and innovation, as is notably illustrated by over 300 patents. The Manufacture proved this determination in 1969 by creating the legendary El Primero automatic movement, which is still the world’s most accurate series-made chronograph. Moreover, fine watchmaking is not confined to the realm of mechanisms. Confirming its tradition of refined watch exteriors, notably embodied in a number of enameled pocket watches, Zenith once again delights collectors and connoisseurs of rare models by presenting the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage —a limited edition that stands out from the rest of the line by its magnificent décor. It represented a challenge not only for the artisans, but also for the watchmakers and engineers who had to rework the movement. They occasionally pushed the boundaries of feasibility in seeking to accommodate these ornamental elements within the same 45mm diameter case in rose gold and beneath the same domed sapphire crystal —while making no compromises on precision and reliability. The result is a vivid illustration of Zenith’s creative daring and of its ability to combine a dream mechanism with exceptional decorative touches stemming from the most prestigious artistic crafts.

Technical sophistication reigns supreme on the front. On the dial side, Zenith opted to give pride of place to the horological feats incorporated in the watch, while maintaining an open architecture providing a chance to admire its three original mechanisms in action: the barrel with its fusée and chain transmission —at 10.30 and 1.30—, gyroscopic gravity control system and the high-frequency regulating organ at 6 o’clock. Yet this technical, three-dimensional appearance does not preclude considerable aesthetic sophistication, as well as the use of the finest artistic crafts that Zenith is devoted to perpetuating. The three gold subdials (hours/minutes at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, power reserve at 4 o’clock) are finely guilloché, enamelled in white and fitted with blued steel hands and screws echoing the grand watchmaking traditions. The plate has been entirely hollowed out by hand so as to leave only the Zenith logo and a flurry of stars standing out in relief; and the troughs thus created have been filled with midnight blue lacquer.

The counterweight of the gravity control system has also been enhanced with a sophisticated and poetic touch by a hand-crafted micro-painted depiction of the Southern hemisphere.

The back is an open travel invitation. The back of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage springs a big surprise with a vividly colored and lively evocation of the famous navigator’s many adventures. This authentic miniature painting was created by the finest specialists in various artistic crafts using a sophisticated system of gold appliques fixed directly on the movement. In the foreground, on either side of the mechanism reminiscent of the gimbal suspension typical of marine chronometers, one may admire the finely engraved portrait of Christopher Columbus along with a sextant, the astronomical instrument serving to calculate longitude. The background bears a reproduction of the Santa Maria, the flagship with which Columbus sailed on his first voyage in 1492. The tiny manually cut-out and micro-engraved décor depicts the vessel in abundantly rich detail, particularly in terms of the ropes and rigging.

The various sails, crafted in enamel on a cloisonné base using an engraved champlevé technique, are adorned with the famous red cross – replaced on one of them by Zenith’s famous guiding star in a nod to connoisseurs. Behind the sailboat, the going-train bridge has been chosen to represent the ocean with a background engraved with tiny waves and then coated with a layer of translucent lacquer.

In the background, the barrel bridge opens up the horizon with a micro-painted décor depicting a sky divided into day and night. In a subtle detail, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have arranged the movement structure in such a way as to reveal a small gilded gear train evoking sunrise or sunset. Integrating this décor called for a wealth of ingenuity, including finding points to which the applique elements could be fixed, while reducing the movement thickness and the spaces between the calibre and the ornamentation to an absolute minimum —less than a tenth of a millimeter beneath the sails. Entirely hand-finished by artisans gifted with great dexterity, the fabulous adornment of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage makes each watch a unique work of art and a true collector’s watch.

The quest for precision at the very heart of the movement. While Christopher Columbus pushed back the frontiers of the known world, this model named after him pushes the boundaries of time measurement by combining three mechanisms guaranteeing enhanced precision: a regulating organ with a high oscillating frequency —36,000 vibrations per hour— for dividing time into tenths of a second; a fusée and chain transmission system compensating for the inevitable variations in the force of a barrel while it is unwinding; and a patented gravity control module serving to neutralize the effects of gravity on the rate of a watch. In other words, it successfully solves the problems relating to actually wearing the watch —gravity— and to the length of time it can run independently —a drop in torque—, while simultaneously ensuring remarkable precision in time measurement —linked to the oscillation speed of the balance. These feats are achieved by an exceptional movement comprising 939 parts, including 354 for the calibre itself that in turn houses the 173 elements of the gravity control module; while the fusée and chain system comprises 585 parts. Fusée and chain transmission ensuring constant force. As a mechanical watch gradually winds down, the movement loses amplitude —corresponding to the balance-wheel’s angle of oscillation— and thus becomes less accurate. The fusée and chain transmission system serves on the contrary to keep the driving force perfectly stable throughout the full power reserve – with the helicoidal shape of the fusée compensating for the progress reduction in the force of the barrel. The majority of 16th, 17th and 18th century pocket watches were equipped with a fusée, but today very few watch manufacturers are capable of transposing and fitting this mechanism within the confines of a wristwatch. With the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage, stemming from two full years of development, Zenith has now entered this highly exclusive club. Transmission between the barrel and fusée is handled by an 18cm long chain comprising 585 parts. This highly complex construction features alternating double and intermediate links. Once assembled, it is capable of withstanding a traction force of more than 3 kilos. 

Throughout the power reserve, the mainspring transmits its energy to the fusée via a chain that wraps itself around the barrel. By adjusting the variations in tension, the fusée regulates the force that is passed on to the going train – and thence to the silicon escape-wheel fitted inside the gyroscopic carriage. While it takes more than 50 hours —the power-reserve duration— for the chain to wrap itself around the barrel, winding via the stem provides a fascinating sight. These few seconds enable the fusée and the barrel to turn in opposite directions so that the chain wraps itself back around the fusée. The shape of the fusée was dictated by the optimal force that the Zenith master-watchmakers wished to give the barrel. Its grooved conical contours as well as its dimensions are the result of lengthy and particularly complex complications performed for each of the seven construction stages. This fusée could doubtless never have been created without the full integration of all professions —notably including movement prototype making— cultivated in the Manufacture Zenith, nor without the use of sophisticated equipment. Such is indeed one of the core strengths of an integrated Manufacture. While fusée and chain transmission eliminates variations in isochronism —the equal duration of the oscillations—, the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage also cancels out another effect that is detrimental to the rate of a mechanical watch: the influence of gravity. Working on the principle that keeping the regulating organ in a horizontal position engenders the best possible balance-wheel amplitude and thus results in optimal timekeeping precision, Zenith devised and patented a revolutionary module enabling the “heart” of the movement and the escapement to remain constantly in this position. An avant-garde system brilliantly illustrating the creative daring of the Manufacture, the gravity control system is also a tribute to history, since it is inspired by the marine chronometers that Zenith used to produce, borrowing from these legendary instruments the principle of gimbal suspension introduced in the 16th century on marine compasses so that they would stay horizontal despite the pitching and rolling of the boat.

The gravity control system with its self-regulating gyroscopic mechanism serves to maintain the regulating organ in a permanently horizontal position whatever the angle of the wrist and thereby represents the ultimate evolution of the marine chronometer. The brand with the guiding star is the only watch manufacturer to master this system —duly rewarded in the “Best Complicated Watch” category at the 2011 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix— that it invented after five years of intense development.

Such an exceptional model deserved to be presented to its best advantage. The Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage comes in a precious mahogany box featuring ox bone inlays and that can also serve as a humidor with a capacity of 80 cigars. In homage to Christopher Columbus, this box is adorned with a screen-printed motif on parchment-style papyrus reproducing Waldseemüller’s planisphere (1507), the first world map to mention the name “America”.

A magnificent ocean voyage and a splendid voyage to the heart of the infinitely small: with this limited edition combining fine watchmaking and artistic crafts, Zenith is setting out to conquer fascinating new horizons, inspired as ever by a blend of daring, authenticity and pleasure.

For more info on Zenith click here. 

Technical Data

El Primero 8805, hand-wound. A unique gyroscopic mechanism that maintains the regulating organ in a perfectly horizontal position.

Calibre: 16 ½’’’ (diameter: 37 mm)

Thickness: 5.85 mm

Parts: 354

Gyroscopic carriage composed of 173 parts

Chain made of 585 parts

Jewels: 53

Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)

Over 50-hour power reserve

 

FUNCTIONS

Off-centered hours and minutes at 12 o’clock

“Gravity Control” self-regulating module at 6 o’clock

Small seconds at 9 o’clock

Power-reserve indication at 3 o’clock

Fusée and chain transmission beneath the hours/minutes dial

Case, dial and hands

18-carat rose gold

Diameter: 45 mm

Thickness: 14.80 mm/21.80 mm
(with domed sapphire crystal)

Cambered sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides, domes protecting the Christophe Colomb module

Water resistance 3 ATM

Dial: 3 enameled gold dials

Hour-markers: black lacquered

Hands: blued steel

Reference 18.2211.8805/36.C713 —Brown alligator leather strap with rose gold triple folding clasp.

News: Zenith Presents El Primero Lightweight Limited Edition. An Avant-Garde Sports Model Available in Only 100 Pieces.

Zenith focuses firmly on lightness, daring and innovation in an exclusive version of its El Primero Striking 10th chronograph featuring high-tech materials. Issued in a 100-piece limited edition, the El Primero Lightweight model teams a titanium and silicon movement with an ultra-sporty carbon case. It signals the dawn of a new era in the fabulous history of the legendary El Primero calibre.

At the time of its launch in 1969, the El Primero calibre overturned existing conventions by asserting itself as the first-ever automatic chronograph to boast an integrated construction. Also impressing observers by beating at the exceptional frequency of 10 vibrations per hour (36,000 vibrations per hour), it is still the world’s most precise series-made chronograph calibre. Over the years, Zenith has steadily fine-tuned its legendary movement in order to optimize its precision, reliability and its performance.  

Zenith is now taking a new turn by unveiling a sportier and even more avant-garde version of the El Primero Striking 10th. The watchwords are lightness, performance and originality. Through combining technological innovation with creative daring, the engineers and watchmakers of the Manufacture were tasked with the mission of reducing the weight of the watch to an absolute minimum, yet without making any compromises on its precision, its sturdiness and its reliability – just as an engine designed for competition is optimized while bearing all these factors in mind. The sizable feat began with the movement. Based on its latest research relating to new materials, Zenith chose titanium —a light and resistant metal widely used in aeronautics— to machine the main elements of the movements that are the heaviest parts of the watch when they are made in brass: namely the main plate and five bridges —barrel bridge, balance bridge, pallet bridge, pallet-wheel bridge and chronograph bridge. The Manufacture has also maintained the silicon double chronograph wheel, while adding a lever and an escape-wheel made from the same high-tech, light, anti-magnetic material that is harder than steel and guarantees excellent efficiency. The result is a one-quarter lighter engine weighing just 15.45 grams —compared with 21.10 grams for a similar classic movement.

In terms of the watch exterior, the designers reworked and subtly enlarged to 45mm the original 42mm case of the El Primero Striking 10th, while also seeking to make it as light as possible on the wrist. The choice of carbon with its fine black color and its checkered effect evoking the world of competitive racing fits the bill perfectly, while also reinforcing the technical and sporty look of the model. The inner structure of the case is made of ceramized aluminum, a cutting-edge material that is at once light, sturdy and hard —1800 Vickers, as against 160-200 for 316L steel. The two chronograph push pieces are in titanium. The openworked lugs accentuate the aerodynamic profile of the watch and ensure a perfect flow into the integrated black rubber and high-performance Nomex synthetic fiber strap equipped with a triple folding clasp providing optimal security and comfort.

The new El Primero Lightweight is also distinguished by its highly original dial featuring a dynamic reinterpretation of the collection’s design codes. Openworking the central part further enhanced the overall lightness-oriented effect while providing a clear view of the El Primero calibre —also visible through the transparent case back. The disc-type date display has been lightened and reworked with pierced numerals standing out on a small red disc at 6 o’clock. The faceted hands have been hollowed as much as possible and then highlighted by a luminescent coating.  The light grey, blue and anthracite colors recapture the three emblematic colors of the 1969 El Primero chronograph that have become iconic brand features. The red sweep seconds hand with its small Zenith star accurately measures feats to the nearest tenth of a second — just as on the dashboards of the greatest racing champions.

Sporty, contemporary and decidedly masculine by nature, the El Primero Lightweight model brings a distinctive touch to the Zenith collections, while powerfully confirming the innovative capacities and the creating daring cultivated by the Manufacture. With its avant-garde technology and its youthful, dynamic look, it shows that the El Primero calibre still has a bright future ahead of it and doubtless heralds new developments as the brand with the guiding star is gearing up to celebrate its 150th anniversary in 2015.

For more info on Zenith click here.  

 

Posted on September 25, 2013 and filed under News, Zenith.

Insider: Zenith Captain Moonphase. A Classic Watch Faithful to the Manufacture's Legacy.

Zenith is one of the greatest names in the horological world that needs very little introduction. Established in 1865 by George Favre-Jacot, this manufacture quickly became an institution in Le Locle Switzerland. In 1900, Zenith presented its first  chronograph at the Universal Exhibition in Paris and was awarded the 'Grand Prix'. Seventeen years later, Zenith started manufacturing instruments for the U.S. Military forces and quickly became the leading brand for chronographs. For over 148 years, the values of the Zenith Manufacture have been precision, exclusivity and beauty underlined by its pioneer spirit and craftsmanship. From this obsession with precision, Zenith has received 2,333 Chronometry Prizes with more than 600 movement variations developed.

The Captain Moonphase ref. 03.2140.691/02.C498 is a watch that clearly embodies Zenith's fine watchmaking heritage and superb craftsmanship. This watch is available in stainless steel or rose gold and is fitted with a case measuring 40mm in diameter and 10.35mm in thickness. The watch case is very nicely finished with a combination of satin brushed and highly polished areas. The beveled lugs present beautiful and elegant 'chamfers' and the back of the watch features a display case back that allows for full view of the automatic calibre Elite 691.

The dial on the Captain Moonphase is a perfect example of why this manufacture is one of the top names in the horological world. The domed dial features a silver toned 'guilloché' center, faceted rhodium-plated applied markers and a minute track on the outermost part. The moon phase aperture is located at 6, the small seconds at 9 and a 'grande' date aperture between 1 and 2 o'clock. The traditional Zenith star is located at 12 right above the Zenith logo. The dial presents and array of textures that are a treat to the eyes and pure perfection. To complete the classic look of the dial, the watch is fitted with rhodium-plated 'dauphine' faceted hands that just like the markers, have no luminous material on them —this would've been a nice addition to this already fantastic timepiece.

The watch is fitted with a curved —slightly domed— sapphire crystal that is treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides allowing the owner to fully appreciate its dial regardless of the lighting conditions.

The beating heart inside this elegant and classic watch is the Zenith Elite 691 automatic calibre that is composed of 228 parts, 27 jewels and that provides a power reserve of at least 50 hours when fully wound. The movement is nicely finished with 'Côtes de Genève' on its rotor that happens to be skeletonized featuring the iconic Zenith star. The movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and is one of the most precise and accurate movements we have reviewed lately —over a period of five days the watch only gained a total of eight seconds.

The time and date are set via the crown —featuring the Zenith star—, while the moon phase disc is advanced via a push-piece located at 8 o'clock. The watch includes a metallic stylus to adjust the moon phase. Unfortunately the tip of the stylus is not protected with rubber or plastic which results on potential scratching of the case while performing the adjustment. One thing we did notice, is that the push-piece clicks very smoothly and is not necessary to put too much pressure on it as compared to the push-pieces on other 'haute horlogerie' timepieces from other manufactures.

To round-up its elegant look, this watch is fitted with a chocolate brown —almost black looking under low light— alligator strap with protective rubber lining. The strap is secured with a stainless steel pin buckle. An optional triple-folding clasp is available upon request. The strap is extremely nice but it requires a break-in period as it's quite stiff when new. Even though the watch is rated waterproof to 50 meters, we wouldn't dare to get such nice strap wet.

The watch wears very comfortably and true to its size and is a perfect timepiece to be worn with a suit on those busy days when you have client meetings.

Sticker Price $7,600 USD. For more info on Zenith click here.