W&W 2024: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Patrimony Manual-Winding

The Patrimony collection is one that has been passed down from generation to generation, unaffected by fashions and trends. Timeless by nature, it is naturally attuned to each successive age because it has succeeded in capturing the undeniable spirit of modernity pervading the 1950s. This was an era marked by creative effervescence, renewal and optimism, a decade in which fashion underwent a major revolution, when design ingeniously played on curves and straight lines, while architecture expressed itself mainly through pure shapes. Vacheron Constantin accompanied the energy of this period with creations distinguished by their understated roundness and striking slenderness.

Among the most noteworthy timepieces of the decade were three ultra-thin models equipped with the legendary Calibre 1003, regarded at the time as the thinnest in the world at just 1.64 mm thick and presented in 1955 to mark the company's bicentenary. Two years later, Vacheron Constantin unveiled Reference 6179, which has since inspired the Patrimony collection. Round and devoid of anything superfluous, it embodies the quintessence of watchmaking classicism with its round case surrounded by a slender bezel, a slightly convex dial punctuated by slender hour-markers and a ‘pearl’ minutes track. Perfectly mastered design reinterpreted within the Patrimony collection, whose minimalist allure is one of Vacheron Constantin's finest signatures.

The perfect balance between rounded curves and taut lines: inspired by the minimalist watches of the 1950s, the Patrimony collection has been celebrating purity of style and the quest for essentials for 20 years. New diameter, new dial and strap colors, customization: the collection continues to be firmly rooted in the modernity of its era with three new models. Two manual-winding models in white gold or pink gold feature a new 39 mm diameter, an antique silver-toned dial, a closed case back providing scope for personalized engraving and two new strap colors in azure blue or olive-green. Lastly, a new white gold model with moon phases and retrograde date with an old-silver-toned dial and an olive-green alligator strap.

An affirmation of uncompromising minimalism
At first glance, nothing has changed: the design is understated, undeniably elegant, timeless yet incredibly contemporary. Nonetheless, the Patrimony manual-winding timepiece as it has existed since 2004 has definitely evolved – starting with the size of the two new manual-winding models that are ideal for any wrist. Already appreciated for its 40 mm size, the case sculpted in pink or white gold now features a classic 39 mm diameter. This aesthetic is echoed on the collection’s signature convex dial, whose sunburst-finished surface is attired in a new old-silver-toned colour. This shade providing a hint of retro styling contrasts with the pink gold of the Patrimony collection’s characteristic slim hands, hour-markers and circular ‘pearl’ minutes track composed by 48 polished 18K gold pearls. In addition to these stylistic evolutions, the alligator leather straps are available in original new azure blue or olive-green colours, adding a fresh touch to the naturally understated nature of the Patrimony. As a final aesthetic detail, the closed caseback enables the owner of the watch to personalise it with a text or design of their choice, delicately engraved in gold.

Heir to the Maison’s great stylistic and technical tradition, the new Patrimony moon phase retrograde date watch also favours timeless understatement, with a 42.5 mm white gold case featuring a new dial colour.

The sunburst old-silver-toned shade creates a subtle contrast with the pink gold of the hands and hour-markers, giving a two-tone twist to this model driven by in-house self-winding Calibre 2460 R31L powering two complications. The first is a moon-phase indication in an aperture at 6 o'clock, graduated to correspond precisely to the moon's cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. This precision moon phase requires just one correction every 122 years. The second consists of a retrograde date display in the upper part of the dial, a Vacheron Constantin technical and style signature. The elegant, pared-down and visually harmonious new Patrimony moon phase retrograde date watch also adopts a new dynamic, enlivening the wrist with an original touch of colour thanks to the new olive-green alligator leather strap.

While understatement may be the order of the day, precision is clearly every bit as important. At the heart of the case beats manual-winding Calibre 1440. Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, this movement is just 2.6 mm thick and endowed with a 42-hour power reserve. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, this in-house calibre displays the emblem of the Maison: a Maltese cross whose shape has inspired that of the openworked 18K gold oscillating weight.

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