Posts filed under Other Brands

Insider: Badollet Ivresse. One of the Most Beautiful Blue Dial Watches.

Here we are presenting another one of the watches we reviewed during our meeting with Philippe Dubois, CEO of Badollet a few weeks ago. The Badollet Ivresse was presented at Baselworld 2012 and is a timepiece with one of the most beautiful midnight blue dials we have ever seen in our watch collecting life.

This is a watch that is simple, clean and perfectly balanced. The dial features an applied satin-brushed chapter ring on top of its midnight blue vertical satin-brushed dial and a highly polished Badollet griffin at 12 o'clock that almost appears as if it was floating in the middle of the darkness.

If minimalist German architect Ludwig Mies Van der Rohe were still alive, he would've described this timepiece using his famous quote "less is more". This beautiful timepiece features a 'tonneau' platinum case that wraps around the wrist like a glove. The case measures 53.80mm in length, 30mm in width and 12.30 in thickness and is fitted with an elegant dark blue alligator strap with large scales, safari finished with rolled edges, tone-on-tone stitching and a pin buckle also in platinum.  

Even though the rectangular 'tonneau'  shape is frequently used in ladies watches, this is a unisex watch that is extremely masculine and top heavy. The beating heart inside this gorgeous timepiece is the Badollet manual-wound calibre 2012. This calibre is a domed movement with cone-shaped going train, flying tourbillon and hanging barrel. The movement provides a power reserve of 5 days when fully wound and is fully visible through the figure eight —infinity shaped— display opening on the solid case back. This calibre, just like all other Badollet calibres is a work of art and a treat to the eyes.

The crown is perfectly flushed against the side of the case in a way where it's almost hidden underneath the watch bezel. This is a clever touch in the design that makes this watch even more elegant and visually appealing.

The wrist presence of this watch is superb and the watch wears very comfortably.  Opposed to what one would think, the watch doesn't wear high on the wrist because of its 'tonneau' shape that adapts to the curvature of the wrist. If you want to wear one of the most exclusive watches with a blue dial —since blue dials are so popular this year—, this is a watch that won't disappoint you, granted that you have enough money to buy one.

Sticker Price $220,000 USD. For more info on Badollet click here.  

Insider: Badollet Crystalball Bamboo. An Exceptional and Very Exclusive Manufacture that Excels in Watchmaking.

Last week we had the opportunity to have breakfast with Philippe Dubois the CEO of Badollet. Not only did we have an amazing conversation with him about his brand but we also talked about the watch industry and where things are heading. Philippe, thank you for sharing such a fascinating morning and afternoon with us.

Badollet is an independent brand with a strong pedigree that, because of its exclusivity and high price range, is only accessible for the ultra elite watchlifestylers. While we were already familiar with the brand before meeting with Philippe, we have never perused a Badollet timepiece before. To be quite frank, it is one thing to see stock images of these watches and something very different to see one in person, peruse it and photograph it. This will be the beginning of a series of reviews of Badollet timepieces that we will be publishing here in the upcoming weeks.  

The Badollet name is part of a dynasty of watchmakers initiated by Jean Badollet (1635-1718) a watchmaker that published in 1689 a work entitled "“The Excellence of Watchmaking” or Small Treatise Describing its Antiquity, its Fundamentals, its Necessity and its Curiosities". Jean Badollet passed on his passion for watchmaking to his six sons. Jean-Jacques Badollet (1756-1843) worked for Abraham-Louis Breguet by supplying him with movement-blanks, gear-trains and “trade watches”. Jean-Moïse Badollet (1811-1862), the son of Jean-Jacques, established the firm “J.M. Badollet & Cie” which quickly became renowned for the excellent quality of its chronometers winning the first prize at the Observatory Timing Contest of 1872, second prize in 1873, third prize in 1875 and the first class medal at the Centennial International Exhibition of 1876 a.k.a. the Philadelphia World's Fair. After several descendants of Badollet managed the company for almost a century, in 1924 the company was sold to a third party and the long dynasty of Badollet master watchmakers came to an end. Despite this, the brand lived on and in 2006 Badollet was revived by Badollet International S.A.

Badollet timepieces —often called instruments of time” by the company— are designed and developed with the buyer in mind and their production is limited to 50 timepieces a year. Their collection is composed of five lines: Crystalball Stellaire, Crystalball Bamboo, Crystalball Chronograph, Observatorie 1872 and Ivresse.

The Crystalball Bamboo is a rectangular watch fitted with a tripartite 18K white gold palladium-coated case measuring 40mm in width, 43mm in length and 14mm in thickness. The case is extremely well finished with alternating brushed and polished areas on the side of the case and even when the measurements really don't portray a large watch, this watch wears considerably larger than its actual size and sits high on the wrist with an amazing wrist presence. The attention to details is immaculate and the overall design of the watch is very masculine and quite timeless. The crown is delicately marked with Badollet's griffin. The lugs are hollow and welded into the case providing another interesting design component to this timepiece.

This timepiece features a skeletonized dial in 18K white gold with a blackened gold-coated brass base, leaf-shaped blued anodized steel hands and a mesmerizing tourbillon cage. The Crystalball Bamboo is powered by Badollet's manual-wound calibre BAD5600 with aluminum and lithium bridges entirely hand-engraved to resemble bamboo scaffolding. The plate and gears are made from blackened gold and the movement provides a power-reserve of five days when fully wound.

This movement is perhaps the most beautiful movement our eyes have ever seen. The intricate work on each of the bridges shows the love for horology and the level of detail obtained by the watchmaker when engraving the bridges is just out of this world. As a side note, Badollet offers ad-hoc personalization where the bridges or other components of the movement can be changed, engraved, replaced with ceramic, sapphire or even encrusted with jewels. All Badollet timepieces can be fully customized and even designed from scratch upon request. What a brilliant product offering for the few that can afford it.  …   

The Crystalball Bamboo, just like all other Badollet timepieces, is fitted with a very elegant safari crocodile leather strap that is handmade, leather-lined, hand-creased, saddle-stitched and available in matte or glossy finish. The strap features an 18K white gold palladium-coated double-deployant folding clasp with a round buckle with the Badollet griffin engraved on it.

If you are ready to take that next step into collecting ultra premium 'haute horlogerie' timepieces then it's time to consider Badollet as one of your next purchases. Tradition, craftsmanship, innovation and exclusivity are some of the values that embody the essence of this manufacture from L'Orient in the Vallée de Joux.

Sticker Price $250,000 USD. For more info on Badollet click here.  

Experience: Davidoff Mille Series 2000. A Perfect Mild Cigar for a Lunch Break.

Nothing beats having a good cigar during your lunch break. This time, we decided to enjoy a mild cigar that is ranked as one of the best cigars for beginners and a cigar that can be enjoyed any time of the day. We are talking about the Davidoff 2000, a cigar within the Davidoff Mille Series that is made in the Dominican Republic.

The Davidoff 2000 is a very mild 'Corona' measuring 5" in length with a 43 ring gauge. This cigar is perfectly suited for a quick smoke or a smoke with no liquor pairings. To join us in this experience a Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Titanium Red that we have reviewed here before. 

This Davidoff 2000 starts as a slightly peppery cigar for the first five minutes, and then evolves into one of the creamiest and mildest Dominican cigars you could ever smoke. Perfectly rolled and reminiscent of the best 'Habanos', this is a Dominican cigar that will get you as close as possible to a Cuban cigar —in terms of its color, smell and smoking experience. You know we are not kidding as this is something we would rarely mention about cigars made in the Dominican Republic.

Once you light up this wonderful cigar, expect to be taken on a wonderful journey with a wide variety of notes that are typically reserved for more complex and bold cigars like 'Flor de las Antillas', 'Cohiba' or 'Montecristo'. As soon as you take those very first puffs as you are lighting it up, you will be greeted by a touch of pepper followed by some leather and coffee notes.

After the first third of the cigar, this Davidoff 2000 evolves every 3-5 minutes during its first half. After the first half, you will notice that the flavor profile remains quite even with seldom changes towards the last third of the cigar. After experiencing notes of pepper, leather and coffee, the cigar also presents caramel and some floral notes towards the end. Without a doubt, this is a cigar that can be enjoyed all the way to the end —even pass where its ring is located. The Davidoff 2000 is one of the few cigars that is comparable to some of our favorite 'Habanos' like the 'Romeo y Julieta' or the 'Quai D Orsay'.

The burning time on this cigar is approximately 35-45 minutes without a single burnout. The ash holds up very nicely for almost the first half —with a long white ash— in a cigar that has the perfect draw and that reviews should be ranking even higher.

Once you get close to its ring, savor the last puffs of this creamy, mild cigar while you check the time on that perfectly matching Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Titanium Red.

For more info on Davidoff click here.  

Insider: Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph. Nice and Well Crafted Like the Pens.

Watchlifestylers know that the Montblanc name is synonym of top quality and finely crafted writing instruments. Montblanc, along with other names like Montegrappa, Caran d'Ache, Cartier, Dunhill and S.T. Dupont, makes the list of the finest pen makers. 

Now, when it comes to watches, sometimes it is hard for us watchlifestylers to admit that Montblanc puts the same relentless effort and care into creating refined timepieces and sophisticated complications as it does with pens; however, the Montblanc ref. 102337 Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph is a perfect example of refined watchmaking in a well crafted and beautiful watch. This is an ingenious way of honoring the French watchmaker Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec. 

The Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph comes with a highly polished stainless steel case measuring 43 mm wide, an anti-reflective double coated sapphire crystal and the automatic Montblanc Calibre MB R200 with 40 jewels and a power-reserve of approximately 72 hours.

This monopusher chronograph features a matte anthracite colored dial with an applique hour circle with black Arabic numerals, date display, second time zone hand with day/night display at 9 o'clock, rotating chronograph registers at 5 and 7 —seconds and 30-minute respectively— and a 'Côtes de Genève' pattern on the lower part.

The chronograph is activated, stopped and reset by one single pusher located at 7 o'clock. Once the pusher is activated, the rotating disc at 7 o'clock starts to move indicating the seconds, while the 30-minute rotating disc at 5 keeps track of the minutes. Both registers feature anodized blue hands and black track numbers.

L1120341.jpg

The second timezone function on this watch is controlled via an independent hour-hand and a 24-hour anodized blue hollow hand. The date is set by advancing the independent hour-hand. The watch features a pull-out crown that is not very easy to pull because of the design of the case.  The watch comes with a black alligator strap with a double-folding clasp.

The craftsmanship of this watch is superior and every detail on it has been meticulously taken care of from the rotor with the Montblanc star logo carved out to the 'Côtes de Genève' pattern on the lower part of the dial to the perfectly engraved case back.

This watch is not only beautiful but a true horological masterpiece honoring a great watchmaker.

If you want a watch to match that Montblanc Meisterstück LeGrand ballpoint pen you've been using since 1990, then you need to get your funds ready and get one of these beautiful watches.  

Sticker Price $10,700 USD. For more info click here.

Baselworld: Ulysse Nardin. Ten Novelties with Impressive Horological and Design Attributes.

Since the manufacturer’s earliest days more than 167 years ago when its founder, Ulysse Nardin, began making marine chronometers in a mountainous location in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the watchmaking powerhouse has continually proved that challenges present vast opportunities worthy of exploration. It is these explorations that have resulted in Ulysse Nardin’s unprecedented inventions in horology. The year 2013 is ripe with invention and the introduction of six in-house developed movements.

Routinely seeking to forge unconventional relationships to strengthen its lead and independence in watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin went on to acquire Donzé Cadrans, the world-recognized enamel-dial specialist. Treasuring the art of enameling and enamel cloisonné, Ulysse Nardin adds this masterful skill to its in-house capabilities.

This year at Baselworld, ten fascinating new timepieces were launched. All of them with very impressive horological and design attributes.

The line-up includes the Marine Chronograph—enameled watch featuring the new in-house chronograph movement UN-150. The Black Sea Marine Diver in stainless steel with a vulcanized rubber coated case.

The Jade, is the first ladies watch with an in-house caliber featuring four exquisite green jade horns that flank the watch bezel with a magnificent ring of emeralds and diamonds and the ability to set the time and date without having to pull the crown out. The time is set by using a pusher at the four o’clock position that changes the function of the crown so that each adjustment is then simply made by turning the crown forwards or backwards without any need to pull it out.

The Black Toro Perpetual Calendar a rose gold and ceramic timepiece offering the simplest setting capabilities of any perpetual calendar out there.

The Stranger Musical watch which is the first in this series of 99-piece limited edition timepieces that plays the melody 'Strangers in the Night' on the hour and on call with direct collaboration by virtuoso Dieter Meier.

The Skeleton Manufacture featuring a flying tourbillon and available in two limited editions of 99 pieces in red gold and 99 pieces in platinum.

The Carnival of Venice Minute Repeater limited to 18 pieces with a dial that depicts two figures in front of the Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal. Both figures are wearing masks, alluding to the Carnival of Venice and with the minute repeater’s chiming of the hours, quarters and minutes, the figures lift their masks.

The Royal Ruby Tourbillon, a handcrafted masterpiece set with 12 rubies distinguishing the hours and accompanied by 48 diamonds in a limited edition of 99 pieces.

The Classico Cloissoné Pride of Baltimore—drawing inspiration from the history changing use of Baltimore Clippers during the War of 1812— and lastly the new Classico Serpent—celebrating the Chinese year of the snake in a limited edition of 88 lucky pieces, this timepiece is a mastery of the art of champlevé enamel method where cells are carved with a chisel directly on the dial and then filled with enamel of a variety of colors created from different metallic oxides.

Baselworld: Frédérique Constant. 25 Years with Classic Designs.

The name 'Frédérique Constant' has been created from two names: Frédérique Schreiner—1881-1969— and Constant Stas—1880-1967. Peter Stas current Managing Director of Frederique Constant S.A., is a 4th generation descendant of Mr. Constant Stas, who founded his company in 1904, making printed clock dials for the watch industry.

Frédérique Constant was established in its current form in 1988. Aletta Bax and Peter Stas launched their first collection in 1992, comprising six models fitted with Swiss movements and assembled by a watchmaker in Geneva. Today, each Frédérique Constant watch is hand-assembled at their manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates in the Canton of Geneva. By the end of 2013, the company aims to produce and sell over 125,000 pieces. With its slogan ‘Live your passion’, Frédérique Constant will continue with their passionate development and production of exciting new collections at very reasonable prices.

This year at Baselworld we were able to admire in real life the intricate details and beauty of the Manufacture World Timer Limited Edition watch. This watch offered in a limited edition of 1888 pieces in stainless steel or rose gold plated stainless steel and with two dial configurations, caught our wandering eyes as soon as we started walking around their pavilion.

Our favorite one is the stainless steel version ref. FC-718WM4H4 with a robust 42mm case with a gleaming silver dial featuring a stunning silver world map at the center, polished midnight blue hands, an extra-large date register at six o’clock and a 24-hour disc with day-night indicators that includes 24 of the world’s greatest cities. The watch is fitted with a blue alligator strap and a display case back. One of the greatest advantages of this watch is the fact that no push button or second crown is needed to operate the cities' disc as everything can be controlled with just one single crown. Pretty impressive and with a sticker price of $3,450 this is definitely a bargain for such a beautiful watch and complicated movement.

For more info click here. 

Baselworld: Breitling for Bentley. 10 Years on the Road.

Breitling for Bentley celebrates ten years on the road with three new chronographs equipped with calibers entirely developed and produced in-house. For the launch of these three new timepieces at Baselworld, we received one of the most unique press kits featuring a USB designed to look like the keyless entry remote on a Bentley automobile. We really think this was a fantastic marketing idea from Breitling.

The three new timepieces include the Bentley B06 distinguished by its exclusive '30-second chronograph' system; the Bentley B04 GMT and Bentley B05 Unitime models will appeal to world travelers thanks to their ultra-practical dual timezone and worldtime mechanisms. Three new expressions of a world apart combining luxury,  accomplishment, performance and prestige. For more info on the Bentley collection click here.

Baselworld: Blancpain's Hand Painted Dials. Just a Superb Work of Art.

While visiting Blancpain's pavilion at Baselworld we admired one of their horologists hand painting dials through a microscope. We were impressed by his skills and talented hands. Now you can see the dials he was working on and what a superb work of art they are.

Enjoy!

Posted on May 3, 2013 and filed under Baselworld, Other Brands.

Baselworld: U-Boat. The Venenum Motorcycle Takes the Attention.

This year the U-Boat pavilion draw a lot of attention thanks to the Venenum motorcycle that was on display. The Venenum motorcycle is one of a hundred bikes that will be created exclusively for U-Boat by Dino Romano from Moto Dal Cuore—which translates to 'Bike from the Heart'.

Dino Romano's shop is located in Grosseto, Italy just 50 miles south of Siena. During the show we had a chance to talk to Dino for a little while and he explained to us how every component on this customization is fully handmade without the usage of any heavy machinery. Yes, all done by hand from cutting metal sheets to giving shape to  the handle bar and even creating the clutch and brake grips.

Dino mentions that the bike took approximately four months to create and it's a customization of a Triumph Rocket III bike with three cylinders and an engine of 140 cubic inches. The Venenum boasts 160 hp with a total weight of 595 lbs. 

As you will be able to appreciate in the pictures, every single detail on the bike was done in a way where U-Boat's iconic elements—i.e. the crown guard—where incorporated to the motorcycle in a functional yet very stylish way.

If you like watches and motorcycles, this could be your next dream bike.

For more info on this amazing bike click here. To browse the whole U-Boat collection click here.

Insider: Bulgari Octo. Evoking Gerald Genta.

BulgariOcto.jpg

The new Bulgari Octo launched back in 2012 is clearly a revamped design of the Octo Bi-Retro and Quadri-Retro predecessors. The revamped design is an improvement to the famous Gerald Genta Octo design, with a somewhat thinner, simpler case with finer lines. The result, a stunning watch in every way.

Bulgari was founded in Rome in 1884 and acquired by LVMH Group in 2011. While it's more famously known for their jewelry creations, its watchmaking credentials were very well established by the famous Bulgari-Bulgari collection. Subsequently, Bulgari acquired Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta brands in 2000 and along with them, their manufacturing facilities at Saigenlegier, La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Sentier in the Vallée de Joux. Today, Bulgari relies on their in-house movements to continue to establish their watchmaking credentials.
 
The Octo has a case diameter of 41.5 mm, a thickness of 10.55 mm and it's fitted with a gorgeous black alligator strap and deployment buckle. The Octo derived from the Italian word 'Otto'—meaning eight— was named this way after the octagonal facets of one of the layers in its case that are clearly visible from the side and also in-between the crystal and the dial. The exquisitely designed casing is assembled by hand with a multilayer complex structure of octagons, hexagons, circles, squares and rectangles. There are a total of 110 facets just on the casing alone with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The bezel has such an exquisite brushed finish that it almost resembles the finish of white gold rather than stainless steel.

BulgariOcto8.jpg
BulgariOcto7.jpg

The dial is a black lacquered dial with applied polished large batons and Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock. The result is a watch that reflects and interacts with light like we have never seen before. No wonder, both laymen watch enthusiasts and seasoned watch collectors have been singing the praises of this watch since its launch. The design is very elegant with phenomenal attention to detail. The beating heart of the Octo is the Bulgari in-house caliber BVL193 with a 50-hour power reserve. The beautiful movement can be seen and enjoyed via the display case back. 

BulgariOcto2.jpg

Our watchlifestyler and friend Mr. B, mentions that the watch is very comfortable to wear, and one of his most comfortable watches. The black alligator strap is of excellent quality, supple, well made and well stitched; that is no surprise, as Bulgari is also famous for its well crafted leather goods. What is pleasantly surprising, is that the leather comes in a naturally bent shape so that it wraps around the wrist right out of the box with none of the stiffness that commonly comes with brand new leather straps—no break-in period here. The deployment buckle is also of very high quality and the buckle snaps into position with a satisfyingly loud clicking sound.  Some of the drawbacks are the lack of luminous material on hands and markers, size of date aperture and watch packaging. With a depth rating of a 100m, only the careless would take this beautiful alligator strap for a swim.

The Octo has a very affordable price for what you get, a perfectly crafted and very comfortable timepiece. Only time will tell if in the far future, if it will be similarly admired as some of the other Genta's creations. This watch is also available in rose gold. Sticker Price for the stainless steel model in this review: $9,500.

For more info on this watch click here.  

Insider: Chanel J12 ref. H0970. An Iconic Women's Watch.

The Chanel J12 has turned into an iconic watch when it comes to female watch collectors. Originally intended to be a unisex watch, this reference was launched several years ago and immediately became a hot watch among women. Today, it's still one of the favorite watches for women looking to make a fashion statement. Crafted in white high-tech ceramic that is highly scratch-resistant, this piece comes in three different sizes. The 33mm is fitted with a quartz movement and the 38mm and 42mm that come with a self-winding automatic movement.

The J12 is a watch well suited for every occasion, whether you are just relaxing at the beach, scuba diving or getting ready for a night-gala, this watch goes well with all types of outfits due to its simple look yet refined character.

 With a 42-hour power reserve, date aperture, unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown, waterproof to a depth of 200m/600ft and a steel triple-folding buckle, the Chanel J12 is definitely a watch that can be enjoyed anywhere. In all is a very comfortable watch, not very heavy and with a superb finish.

Insider: Bremont ALT1-Z Zulu. In Memoriam to Our Friend Jon.

Bremont is a British company producing beautifully engineered chronometers in Henley on Thames, England. Bremont watches similar to Bell & Ross are inspired by aircraft instruments and the art of flying. Bremont watches are manufactured to a very high specification and every watch has a chronometer certification. The Bremont ALT1-Z Zulu line was designed with aviators and world travelers in mind. Z stands for 'Zulu Time' and allows the wearer to display local time together with the official world time standard - Universal Time Coordinated—UTC—, Greenwich Mean Time—GMT—, or even Zulu time—Z. UTC—replaced GMT in 1972— is now used as the standard clock of choice for international reference time in communications, military, aviation, maritime and other activities that cross time zones. This is one of the primary reasons why the Bremont ALT1-Z  has become the watch of choice for the professionals involved in these activities, including many Military Squadrons. 

Posted on April 1, 2013 and filed under Other Brands, Bremont.