In the 70s, the advent of quartz shook the foundation of the watchmaking industry, spurring watchmakers to find innovative solutions to the ravages caused by the emergence of this new technology. The Manufacture responded by breaking mechanical records with its world’s thinnest perpetual calendar mechanism in 1978, as well as by releasing revolutionary mechanical watches combining tradition and avant-garde design. Audemars Piguet introduced its first hand-wound “Philosophique” watch in 1982, inviting wearers to question the notion of passing time. This model referred back to the beginning of time measurement devices, which were equipped with a single hour hand until the beginning of the 18th century to simplify energy transmission.
The Audemars Piguet Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique
By telling time philosophically and sentimentally, Audemars Piguet also liberated time from the constraints of the modern industry’s relentless quest for precision. The new AP Philosophique reminded us that watches had been, and continue to be, worn first and foremost as emotional markers. Audemars Piguet encourages women to reappropriate time. Inspired by the aesthetics of 17th-century single-hand timepieces, the new Audemars Piguet Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique tells time philosophically. This design watch is a statement of creative freedom and freespirited individuality. In defiance of the rush and frenzy of today’s world, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique puts time on women’s side, its single hand defying contemporary conventions of time measurement. The time is indicated without a minute hand and with just one hand wandering around the dial in an elliptical trajectory. The single hour hand is polished and sand-blasted. The white gold model ref. 77266BC.GG.A326CR.01 sports a blue dial, while the pink gold version ref. 77266OR.GG.A823CR.01 sports a gorgeous brown dial.
About the Case
The 18K pink or white gold case presents alternating satin brushing and Frosted Gold finishing, a technique Audemars Piguet owes to Florentine jewellery designer Carolina Bucci. The diamond-dust effect it creates, which results from hours of meticulous micro-hammering, nicely contrasts with the hand-polished bevels adorning the case and lugs.
The case measuring 39.5 x 35.4 mm is hammered and satin-finished in either 18K white or pink gold case and the winding crown is set with a blue or translucent sapphire cabochon. The watch is water resistant to 20 meters and the dial in blue for the white gold model and in brown for the pink gold one is finished with a ‘hammered-like’ effect.
The watch is rounded by a satin-finished large square scale blue or brown alligator strap with 18K white or pink gold pin buckle.
The Movement
Adding to the current hand-wound collection, this watch is equipped with a new automatic movement, calibre 3140. This 43-jewel movement composed of 243 parts is endowed with a patented mechanism which ticks the hand around the dial in an elliptical trajectory to follow the curve of the case. The hour wheel directly corresponds with a transparent disc on the dial, on which the single hand is mounted.
The movement provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound. Adding a subtle touch of color, the display case back reveals the oscillating weight, which features coloured plates recalling the hand-crafted dimpled dial in shades of brown or blue.
On the Wrist & Price
Sticker Price $29,500 USD. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.
