Insider: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T in 18K rose gold. Hands-on with one of the Most Stunning Timepieces from Vacheron.

Released in October of 2016 in platinum, there is now a new version of this watch in 18K rose gold that was just released at the SIHH 2017. The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T/000R-B304 is an exceptional timepiece in 18K rose gold that is as pure as it gets in terms of design and unequivocal elegance. Equipped with the new in-house Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1142 QP and cased in a generous 43 mm, the newest grand complication from Vacheron Constantin combines the chronograph and the perpetual calendar. With its classic round case and elegant dark brown crocodile strap, this Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T embodies formal elegance with supreme mastery.


The Case

The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T iin 18K rose gold is the ultimate expression horological mastery. With its distinctive design codes reflected in each and every detail of its 43 mm stepped case, the new Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T/000R-B304 features a fluted pattern on the rim of the case back and rectangular pushers.


The Dial

Its silvered opaline dial features a grey railway minute track, a black tachymetric scale surrounding the dial and dauphine hands. The dial is extremely clean and easy to read, regardless of the amount of information that is packed into this watch. Reflecting the layout of 1940s Vacheron Constantin chronographs, the dial features running seconds indicator at 9 and a 30-minute chronograph register at 3 o'clock both distinguished by a circular-brushed ring with snailed center.

At 12 o'clock, three small apertures provide the day of the week, the month and the leap year information.

But what takes the center stage on this dial, is the hand-finished 22K rose gold moon phase indicator at 6 o'clock. Positioned in the center of a date counter, it provides a symbolic depiction of a moon face that is alternately smiling or melancholic, depending on the path of the Earth’s satellite.


The Movement

Powering the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T is the new new in-house calibre 1142 QP with 324 parts and 21 jewels. This manual wound movement entirely designed and developed at Vacheron, replaces the previous 1141 QP. The new movement drives the perpetual calendar functions as well as the chronograph functions with a direct-drive seconds hands and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, positioned opposite the small seconds at 9 o’clock. Beating at a frequency of 21,600 vph —3 Hz.— the movement offers a power reserve of 48 hours when fully wound. Fully visible through the display case back, this movement is extremely beautifully finished and a piece of horological architecture worthy of contemplating. The movement is so beautiful that this is one of those watches that could be worn inside out.


On the Wrist & Pricing

The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T in 18K rose gold is fitted with a hand stitched dark brown alligator leather strap secured by a matching 18K rose gold folding clasp. On the wrist, the watch wears extremely comfortably and true to its 43 mm size on a 7.25" wrist. Elegant, understated and a true marvel of horology is the Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T. A watch that ticks all the boxes of you like grand complications that combine the functionality of a chronograph with the convenience of a perpetual calendar. If you want to own one of the most impressive timepieces from Vacheron Constantin out there, look no further.

Sticker Price $150,000 USD. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.