While we have already reviewed Genta's second most iconic creation in the past here, we decided to now spend some time talking about the silvery-white dial Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-011 that for many, seems way more beautiful than its blue dial counterpart. As you all know, the Patek Philippe Nautilus was conceived using the shape of a porthole found on most boats and following Audemars Piguet's footsteps, Patek Philippe anticipated the trend well in advance and responded to it in 1976 by launching the Nautilus Ref. 3700. While it was designed to appeal to a new customer segment, it was also intended to convince current Patek Philippe owners to complement their precious gold one with a ruggedly strong alternative in a steel case. Just like on the rest of Genta's creations, the alternating brushed and polished areas on the bezel as well as the flat top cases are part of the design. With its unmistakeable black-blue dial, this timepiece was released in 1976 as ref. 3700/1 in stainless steel and nicknamed 'Jumbo' due to its large case diameter at the time —42 mm including the hinges/ears.
Something that many forget when it comes to the launch of the Nautilus, is that a Swiss patent was awarded at the time for its water-resistant capabilities —120 meters— as it was fitted with a monocoque case like that on the first generation of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 5402. While the first ladies’ Nautilus model was launched in 1980 —ref. 4700— and a mid-size —37.5 mm in diameter— Nautilus was released in 1981, it wasn't until the Fall of 2012 that the silvery-white dial version of this iconic reference was presented.
While the black-blue dial on the Patek Philippe Nautilus has seen changes in hue between the release of the ref. 3700 in 1976 and the newer examples of the ref. 5711, there was really no option for those that prefer light colored dials until three years ago. The first attempt to release a new dial option on the Nautilus took place back in 1998 when the ref. 3710 —nicknamed the 'Comet' dial— was released sporting a black dial with roman numerals and power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock. While we consider ourselves 'purists' when it comes to iconic watches like the Nautilus, there's something very special about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Silvery-White Dial ref. 5711/1A-011. In our opinion, the silvery-white dial not only provides a more versatile look that goes well with everything, but it also allows for light to enhance the depth of its design, all rounded out perfectly by the black hands and applied hour markers.
Fitted with a very unique design and construction of its distinctive case. The shape of the bezel is neither round nor rectangular, just like the Royal Oak it is an octagon but with gently rounded corners and with hinges to the left and right that some like to call 'ears'. However, the original Nautilus ref. 3700 featured straight hinges instead of gently rounded as they are now, to formally reflect the lateral curvature of the bezel, enhancing the elegance of the new Nautilus case.
To guarantee ultimate water resistance and to stay true to its maritime nature being called the 'Nautilus', the watch is fitted with a screw-down crown, making it as tight and water resistant as it gets.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Silvery-White Dial ref. 5711/1A-011 is powered by the automatic calibre 324 S C composed of 213 parts, 6 bridges and 29 jewels. The movement has a thickness of 3.3 mm and provides a power reserve of 45 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. The movement is fully visible via the display case back, one thing that Nautilus 'purists' dislike as the ref. 3711 was fitted with a monocoque case.
On the wrist, the watch wears very comfortably and true to its size, perhaps slightly smaller when compared to an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The bracelet is somewhat light and thin for our taste but beautifully finished with a deployant buckle and fliplock. If you are ready to go against the tide, then its time to get a Nautilus with silvery-white dial and show other watchlifestylers why this dial can be better than its black-blue counterpart.
Sticker Price $26,700 USD. For more info on Patek Philippe click here.