Insider: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712. Hands-on with One of the Most Iconic Nautilus Models.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712/1A-001 in stainless steel, is one of the most iconic Nautilus models as it was originally released as ref. 3712/1A in 2005 and produced for less than a year. Fitted with a date indicator, moon phases and a power reserve indicator, this reference is simply awesome. The Nautilus ref. 5712 stays true to the design cues of the original Nautilus ref. 3700 and its predecessor ref. 3712. The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712 is available in 18K white gold and 18K rose gold on crocodile strap and in stainless steel with matching stainless steel bracelet like the one we have here. The Nautilus line was originally launched in 1976 and it still looks as sharp and amazing as it did back then. The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712/1A-001 is fitted with a 40 mm case like the Nautilus ref. 5711, a case that is only 0.5 mm smaller than that on the Nautilus Chrono ref. 5980 we've featured here and here. On this hands-on review, we will also explain the differences between this reference and its predecessor.

The Dial

The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712/1A-001 in stainless steel is fitted with a gorgeous black-blue dial with a very unique hue. Its siblings in 18K rose gold and 18K white gold, are fitted with a slate grey dial that is also gorgeous but not as strikingly beautiful as the one on this stainless steel model. Just like on all other Nautilus models, the dial features the horizontally embossed Nautilus pattern accentuated with ten applied luminous hour markers in 18K white gold.

While there's a lot going on on this dial, the layout is still relatively uncluttered and quite nice. The layout includes a power reserve indicator at 10 o'clock, a snailed date indicator with moon phases between 6 and 9 o'clock and a running seconds subdial at 4 o'clock —the latter is an excellent feature that helps the wearer realize whether the watch is running or not.

For those familiar with its predecessor the Nautilus ref. 3712, it is very easy to recognize a ref. 3712 against a ref. 5712 solely based on certain nuances on the dial. For those of you not that familiar, here are the main differences between both watches and the tell tale:

  1. On ref. 5712, the power reserve indicator includes four red dots before the number '12' instead of only three on ref. 3712.
  2. The numbers on the date indicator are considerably bigger on the ref. 5712 vs. the ref. 3712. Also on ref. 3712, the numbers from '11' thru '23' are inverted. No longer inverted on the newer ref. 5712.
  3. The dial on ref. 5712 includes only 10 markers vs. 11 markers on the ref. 3712 which includes a marker at 7 o'clock. Additionally, the marker at 8 o'clock is slightly longer on the dial of ref. 3712 and the 6 o'clock marker is complete unlike the one on ref. 5712 which is slightly cut by the date indicator.
  4. The color of the moon and stars on the moon phase disc of ref. 5712 is more of a gold color rather than a dark silver on ref. 3712.
  5. Thinner hour and minute hands on ref. 5712.
  6. A more grayish blue hue on the dial of ref. 3712.

Other differences between the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3712 and its successor the Nautilus ref. 5712 include: a two-piece case on the earlier vs. a three-piece case construction on the latter, a beefier screw-down crown on the latter, a more rounded case on the latter and more square-shaped center links on the bracelet of the ref. 5712.

The Bracelet

The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. ref. 5712/1A-001 in stainless steel is fitted with the same type of stainless steel bracelet as other Nautilus references, but slightly more robust. While from a design standpoint we feel the look of the bracelet is flawless and a true icon, its construction is still somewhat light when compared to a Rolex or Audemars Piguet bracelet. Regardless, the bracelet is exquisitely finished with satin brushed outer links and highly polished center links featuring the Nautilus fold-over clasp with safety lock.

The Movement

The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712/1A-001 is powered by the Patek Philippe automatic calibre 240 PS IRM C LU —where the acronym means Petite Seconde, Indicateur de Réserve de Marche, Calendrier and Phases de Lune— with off-centered 22K gold mini-rotor and composed of 265 parts, 29 jewels, Gyromax balance and which provides a power reserve of 48 hours when fully wound, while beating at a frequency of 21,600 vph —3 Hz. The calibre is beautifully finished with the classical Patek touches and fully visible via the display case back.

On the Wrist & Pricing

On the wrist, the watch wears true to its size and with stunning wrist presence —at the end of the day this is a 'Nautilus', so what else could one expect, right? The unique color of its dial, makes this watch very easy to wear with almost any outfit and its dial color is as close as it gets to that on the iconic Nautilus ref. 3700.

Sticker Price $33,500 USD. For more info on Patek Philippe click here.